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Dior Channels Rebellious Women At Paris Fashion Week 2023

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ARIS, Greece — Following Milan DIOR, the spotlight in global fashion shifted to the final stretch of ready-to-wear shows in Paris on Tuesday, as the industry looks to the future with all of the final fall trends.

This week, however, displays in the French capital will pay tribute to deceased designers Vivienne Westwood and Paco Rabanne.

Here are some highlights from the fall-winter 2023-2024 collections unveiled on Tuesday, including Dior:

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DIOR’S QUEENS

Dior’s guests were treated to a surreal world in the Tuileries gardens in Paris.

The round runway was filled with a giant, multicolored octopus installation. Its fabric tentacles were lit up with thousands of tiny lights. A Portuguese artist named Joana Vasconcelos was interested in how organic form interacted with the “feminine realm of artisanal savoir-faire.” It was a beautiful background, especially when paparazzi flashes caught guests like Charlize Theron and Maisie Williams, model Elle Macpherson, and K-pop star Jisoo.

If the decor appeared futuristic, the clothing took inspiration from the past, resulting in less vitality but plenty of flairs.

Three women — the house founder’s sister Catherine Dior, a French resistance hero, and French singers Edith Piaf and Juliette Greco, each described as “rebellious, at once strong and fragile” — were muses in this collection. Christian Dior’s heyday inspired it in the 1950s.

A faded black leather menswear coat, crumpled houndstooth skirt, and wrinkled woolen socks gave off a vintage vibe. Sweaters and skirts featured extra volume in the shoulders or hips, a nod to the thicker fabrics of the post-war era. A black textured skirt hung heavily with thousands of embellished flowers cut a fine androgynous figure beneath a white shirt and tie. While the mottled fabric had a gleaming metallic thread sewn into it, revealing Dior’s atelier’s skills.

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PAST AND FUTURE OF MAME KUROGOUCHI

Mame Kurogouchi’s Japanese ready-to-wear label delves edgily between past and present, fusing traditional dressmaking with cutting-edge technology.

At the fall’s minimalist take on the 1980s, this was on full display as minimalist as a decade that exuberant can be.

A grey pantsuit with crisp, clean lines and a diagonal dynamic had a futuristic feel. A black scarf that gripped the neck like a hand tugged down the shoulder was paired with a black space-age fanny pack that resembled a cummerbund.

A sanitized color palette worked well with the 80s references — broad, flat apron silhouettes, hoods, and thickly textured top-heavy ensembles.

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VAQUERA GETS IN THE KINK

“Obscene dress,” reads one T-shirt in Vaquera’s rather risque collection, despite being one of the least kinky looks in a show that featured inches of flesh, studded chokers, bare torsos, a shredded take on bondage gear, and multiple takes on 90s grunge and denim jeans.

Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee, who rose to prominence six years ago in New York with their iconic U.S. flag gown, debuted their sophomore collection in Paris. Following a more commercial season last year, the talented duo returned to their daring antics.

The black-heavy 12-look presentation began with a masked headpiece and a patch over one breast on a naked female torso. The model’s gloved hand covered the other breast. It’d be a difficult look to pull off on the street, but it got guests’ cameras clicking. Then, a black cotton top with numerous volume and edge shreds. A skirt with flaps was deconstructed to resemble a bondage outfit, and it was worn with a thermal hat in a woolen take on a bondage mask.

SOURCE – (AP)

 

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World

Marc Bohan, Former Dior Creative Director And Friend To The Stars, Dies At Age 97

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Marc Bohan, Dior’s longest-serving creative director, has died at the age of 97. Hollywood aristocrats such as Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor wore their thin silhouette designs.

After his predecessor, Yves Saint Laurent, was inducted into the French military in 1960, Bohan was selected to oversee the French label. From 1961 through 1989, he served as artistic director for the brand, delivering exquisite and subtle tailored outfits for the modern woman.

In 1961, he launched the “slim” look, a thin version of Dior’s iconic design with feminine shoulders and sensuously refined skirts, in his first couture collection for the house.

Bohan’s death was confirmed by Dior on Friday, who described him as an “immense visionary and passionate creator” who left his stamp on the fashion company.

“Marc Bohan was a unique creator dear to the heart of our House, infusing Dior elegance with his free spirit,” said Dior CEO Delphine Arnault. “A man of enormous talent who profoundly influenced both our history and fashion history.”

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Marc Bohan, Dior’s longest-serving creative director, has died at the age of 97.

The couturier became great friends with Princess Grace of Monaco while working at Dior; thus, her wardrobe paid respect to his work as the two shared the same idea of elegance and flair. Even outside his friendship network, Hollywood influenced Marc’s work: in 1966, he created a collection with fur trim and long coats inspired by “Doctor Zhivago.”

Although Marc tried to remain out of the spotlight — he was often described as modest and discreet – his ideas kept him there. Bohan was commissioned to design the magnificent coronation gown for Iran’s then-empress, Farah Diba Pahlavi, in 1967.

During his time at Dior, Marc expanded the brand’s offerings, from starting Dior’s baby shop to creating Miss Dior and Dior Monsieur lines for young ladies and men. He was also lauded for arranging Dior’s first Indian shows.

In 1989, Gianfranco Ferré took over the fashion house from Bohan. Marc left Dior and relocated to London, where he joined the illustrious house of Norman Hartnell, a couturier for the British royal family. His daughter is the only survivor.

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SOURCE – (AP)

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Fashion

Algeria Bans ‘Barbie’ Almost A Month After Movie’s Local Release

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ALGIERS, Algeria — Nearly a month after its premiere in Algeria, the “Barbie” movie was yanked from theatres there this week.

The movie has been “immediately” pulled from theatres in Algiers, Oran, and Constantine, according to online news source 24H Algerie.

The alleged directive should have been addressed by the ministry or the Algerian Audiovisual Regulatory Authority, nor did they explain.

Last month, “Barbie” premiered at a few cinemas in Algeria. Beginning this week, the movie’s distributors stopped scheduling screenings of the Hollywood hit.

This action follows the live-action film based on the American fashion dolls being prohibited by Kuwaiti and Lebanese authorities for supposedly undermining traditional values.

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Nearly a month after its premiere in Algeria, the “Barbie” movie was yanked from theatres this week.

On social media, some Algerians voiced their displeasure with the cancellation and the hashtag “#IAmBarbie.” Others called it “censorship” and “bigotry.”

According to others, the “Barbie” movie “is a threat to morality,” wrote author Leila Belkacem in a Facebook post. What morals are they referring to when they watch a tonne of porn at home? Don’t you get tired of leading the nation into your gloomy delusions?

Retired teacher Fatima Ait Kaci informed the Associated Press that she had committed to taking her two granddaughters, who were visiting from Canada, to see the film. Ait Kaci claimed she didn’t learn what had happened to “Barbie” until they got to the Riadh El Feth theatre in Algiers and saw another movie scheduled for the 3:00–5:00 p.m. period.

She claimed that the Algerian government “don’t have the courage to accept responsibility for this shameful act of censorship.”

barbie

Nearly a month after its premiere in Algeria, the “Barbie” movie was yanked from theatres this week.

The private TV channel Es Salam’s programming has been “temporarily” suspended; the Audiovisual Regulatory Authority announced last week. This is because Es Salam allegedly broadcast “in an irresponsible and unprofessional manner, a programme containing scenes contrary to the precepts of Islam and the way of life of Algerian society.”

There are no overt sexual references or mentions of LGBTQ+ rights in “Barbie”. However, it appears to have sparked controversy due to its overt flamboyance and inclusive message of gender equality in a place where homosexuality is traditionally seen as taboo.

Since its debut, the Warner Bros. movie has made over $1 billion globally.

SOURCE – (AP)

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Celebrity

Billy Porter Calls Out Anna Wintour Over Harry Styles’ Vogue Cover

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Billy Porter is direct in his speech.

More than two years after being the first guy to appear only on the cover of Vogue, the star of Pose is thinking back on the magazine’s decision, adding that he believes the “As It Was” singer was selected for the cover because he is “white and straight.”

Porter stated, “It doesn’t feel good to me,” in an interview with The Telegraph on August 14. “You’re utilizing my community to advance your career, or your group is doing so. You didn’t have to make any sacrifices.

The Kinky Boots actor, who is well-recognized for his gender-neutral fashion choices, continued by revealing that he spoke with Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour months before the publication of the cover.

Porter said, “That bitch asked me at the end, ‘How can we do better?'” And since I was caught off guard, I failed to say what I should have.

porter

Billy Porter is direct in his speech.

The 53-year-old thought he ought to have persuaded Wintour and her colleagues to “use your power as Vogue to uplift the voices of the leaders of this de-gendering of fashion movement.”

Porter remarked that Harry Styles was the first male on the cover “six months later.”

The Emmy winner emphasized that he doesn’t hold the One Direction member responsible for getting the cover.

“It’s not Harry Styles’ fault that he just so happens to be white, cute, and straight and fit into the infrastructure that way,” he remarked. “I call the gatekeepers,” you say.

Porter has already stated that he views Vogue’s decision as an instance of the erasure of people of color. This isn’t the first time Porter has shared his opinions on the magazine’s choice.

“I feel like the fashion industry has accepted me because they have to,” he said to The Sunday Times in October 2021. I started the discourse about non-binary fashion, but Vogue still featured Harry Styles, a straight, white male, in a dress on their cover for the first time, so I’m not completely convinced. Here’s why.

porter

Billy Porter is direct in his speech.

Porter continued, “I’m not dragging Harry Styles, but he is the one you’re going to try and use to represent this new conversation? “pointing out that the 29-year-old himself wasn’t the problem. He does it because it’s the right thing, and he doesn’t care. For me, this is politics. This is who I am.

The Tony winner explained his position the following month, saying his viewpoint is “not about” Styles.

In an episode of The Late Show with Stephen Colbert from November 2021, he asserted, “The conversation is deeper than that.” “It’s about how people of color who contribute to culture are marginalized and subject to oppressive structures. There is a lot to unpack there. I’m willing to discuss it without the Internet’s drag-and-cancel culture because I don’t judge my life or humanity in soundbites now and never will.

Finally, he said, “I’m sorry, Harry. I had no malicious intent. A gay man, I am. Harry is cute, and we like him.

SOURCE – (Enews)

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