Fashion

Grace Bumbry, 1st Black Singer At Bayreuth, Dies At 86

Published

1 year ago

2023-05-08

NEW YORK – Grace Bumbry, a groundbreaking mezzo-soprano who became the first Black vocalist to perform at Germany’s Bayreuth Festival after a career spanning more than three decades on the world’s most prestigious stages, has died. She was 86 years old.

According to her publicist, David Lee Brewer, Bumbry died on Sunday at Evangelisches Krankenhaus in Vienna.

On October 20, she suffered a stroke while flying from Vienna to New York for her induction into Opera America’s Opera Hall of Fame. She was hit by the airliner 15 minutes before landing, was treated at NYC Health + Hospitals/Queens, and flew back to Vienna on December 8. Brewer said Monday that she had been in and out of institutions since then.

Bumbry was born in St. Louis on January 4, 1937. Her father, Benjamin, worked as a railway porter, and her mother, Melzia Walker, was a schoolteacher.

She sang in the choir at Ville’s Sumner High School and won a talent contest sponsored by radio station KMOX, which included a scholarship to the St. Louis Institute of Music, but she was denied admittance because of her race. She appeared on CBS’s “Arthur Godfrey’s Talent Scouts,” then went on to attend Boston University College of Fine Arts and Northwestern University, where she met soprano Lotte Lehmann, who became her instructor and mentor at the Music Academy of the West in Santa Barbara, California.

Bumbry, who was largely recognized as a mezzo but also sang some soprano roles, was inspired when her mother took her to hear Marian Anderson, the American contralto who became the first Black singer at New York’s Metropolitan Opera in 1955. Bumbry was a member of an acclaimed age of Black opera singers that included Leontyne Price, Shirley Verrett, George Shirley, Reri Grist, and Martina Arroyo.

Bumbry was one of the Met National Council Auditions winners in 1958. She made her Paris Opéra debut the following year as Amneris in “Aida.”

Bumbry was largely recognized as a mezzo but also sang some soprano roles.

The next year, Wieland Wagner, the composer’s grandson, cast her as Venus in a new production of “Tannhäuser” at the Richard Wagner Festival in Bayreuth. Bumbry’s inclusion in a production that included stars Wolfgang Windgassen, Victoria de los Angeles, and Dietrich Fischer-Dieskau prompted 200 letters of criticism to the festival.

“I remember being discriminated against in the United States, so why should it be different in Germany?” In 2021, Bumbry told St. Louis Magazine. “I knew I needed to get up there and show them what I’m all about.” When we were in high school, our teachers — and, of course, my parents — taught us that we are all the same. You are not superior to anyone, nor are you inferior to anyone. You must always provide your best effort.”

Her Bayreuth debut on July 23, 1961, received largely excellent reviews.

“A very large voice, though a little lackluster in color.” “It’s a voice that hasn’t’s-et,’ as the teachers say,” Harold C. Schonberg wrote in The New York Times. “She is a singer with a bright future.”

As a result of the publicity, Bumbry was invited to sing at a White House state banquet the following February by first lady Jacqueline Kennedy. Debuts followed at Carnegie Hall in November 1962, the Royal Opera House in London in 1963, and the Teatro alla Scala in Milan in 1964.

Bumbry’s final full opera at the Met was on November 3, 1986, at Amneris in Verdi’s “Aida,”

On October 7, 1965, she made her Met debut as Princess Eboli in Verdi’s “Don Carlo,” the first of 216 appearances with the company.

“Her assurance, self-possession, and character projection are the kind from which a substantial career can be made,” said Irving Kolodin in the Saturday Review.

Bumbry’s final full opera at the Met was on November 3, 1986, at Amneris in Verdi’s “Aida,” though she returned a decade later for the James Levine 25th anniversary gala to sing “Mon coeur s’ouvre à ta voix (Softly awakens my heart)” from Saint-Saens’ “Samson et Dalila.”

In 1989, she performed in the first completely staged performance of work at Paris’ Bastille Opéra, in Berlioz’s “Les Troyens (The Trojans).” She was honored at the Kennedy Centre Honours in 2009.

Bumbry’s marriage to Polish tenor Erwin Jaeckel, which began in 1963, ended in divorce in 1972. Charles and Benjamin Bumbry were his brothers.

According to Brewer, tributes are being prepared for Vienna and New York.

SOURCE – (AP)

Fashion

Exploring the Best Mechanical Watches in Today’s Market

Published

2 days ago

2024-10-02

Geoff Thomas

Curiously enough, despite the arrival of the smart watch with all its multitasking allure and its flashy functionality, mechanical watches have grown a lot in popularity over the past few years.

And though the Quartz revolution has made watches so much more affordable and accessible to everybody, the advance in manufacturing technology has brought to us in recent decades some outstanding mechanical timepieces that rival the affordability of higher-end Quartz ones.

If you’re looking for a mechanical watch that is worth it and is also affordable, you’ve come to the right place because today, we’re going to be listing the best mechanical watches in 2024.

Best Mechanical Watches

Seiko Recraft

The Seiko Recraft is a wacky collection, out of which we prefer the SMK P27 with its lovely green dial and the rectangular case shape with slightly curved edges. It’s a rarity in the watch world, a vintage-inspired timepiece, reminiscent of the 1970s. The watch comes with only 50 meters of water resistance, an automatic movement without hacking function and without hand winding, and just a mineral crystal hard lex protecting the dial, but it’s an impressive timepiece nonetheless, and it costs a humble $275.

Tissot Everytime Swissmatic

An elegant and affordable piece that costs around $400. It’s one of the best mechanical timepieces you can get for the money. The simplicity of its dial, the clean and minimalistic esthetic with that lovely contrast between the stark the dial and the silver hue of the case, hands and indices, really make for a stunning watch. And inside, there’s a reliable Swiss automatic movement with a hearty power reserve of 70 hours with an accuracy of plus or minus 10 seconds a day, proving to be quite a capable mechanical caliber, especially for that price.

Citizen NJ0100 Automatic

One of the big Japanese names in affordable watches is Citizen and their NJ0100 Automatic proves to be quite a sight, powered by a Myota 8210 automatic movement with a water resistance of 50 meters. The price doesn’t exceed $150, so it’s perfect, but the fact that it’s an older model and not in production anymore makes it a little harder to find. But if you look around the internet, you should find plenty.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Blue Moon

The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Blue Moon is a real stunner. It may be a little more expensive at $440, but still on the affordable side, and it’s worth all those bucks. It comes in a 40.5 millimeter stainless steel case with an automatic four R-3-5 movement as it’s ticking hot, reliable, and with a 41-hour power reserve. But the most captivating part of this timepiece is that dark blue sunburst style, giving the watch an artistic and captivating look.

Tufina Sahara Mechanical

The Tufina Sahara is among the most popular mechanical watches out there, one with a dressy look and plenty of variants to choose from. Our favorite is the rose gold one, which boasts a remarkable silver dial with an intricate skeleton composition, playing with light in such a way that it creates a mesmerizing show. On the technical side, it comes powered by a mechanical movement with 17 rubies, a 3 ATM water resistance, rhodium plated case, Alpha photoluminescent hands and a superb sapphire coated lens protecting the dial. The thin bezel and classic guarded crown gives this watch a very elegant look, and the fact that you can find it for about $990 makes it that much more appealing.

Orient Kamaso

The Orient Kamaso is a worthy divers watch, bringing some impressive features for less than $300. The sapphire crystal glass, for example, is a rare feature on affordable watches. Then there’s the rugged stainless steel case that is depth rated for 200 meters, another feature that usually comes with higher price tags. When it comes to appearance, the Kamaso has a stunning black, blue, red, or green sunburst dial, complemented by the rotating vessel, finished in the same color. Under the dial, there’s an automatic Orient Calibur F692, a movement that’s said to be reliable and accurate.

Dan Henry 1970 Automatic Diver

Remaining in the diving watch world, the Dan Henry 1970 Automatic Diver, a tribute to the Compressor case dive watchers that were the thing back in the late 1960s and early 1970s. It comes with the Seco NH-3 five automatic movement, water resistance of 200 meters, and in two case sizes, 40 millimeters and 44 millimeters. What we’re most impressed with is the beautiful and refreshing dial. It’s a classic, but it’s also one that departs from the similar designs that most divers have.

Fashion

Shein Faces Scrutiny In Italy Over Possible Greenwashing

Published

1 week ago

2024-09-26

Kiara Grace

Italy’s antitrust police are looking into Shein, the online fast fashion behemoth, for potentially making false statements about its environmental efforts.

The country’s independent competition commission said in a statement that the greenwashing investigation would focus on Infinite Styles Serves Co. Limited, a Dublin-based company that manages Shein’s website and app.

Shein Faces Scrutiny In Italy Over Possible Greenwashing

Shein was started in China and is now headquartered in Singapore. It has risen to prominence in the retail industry, thanks to a business model that enables it to produce garments in real-time and deliver it straight to clients from factories mostly in China.

That has allowed the company to sell things at extremely low prices and attract customers who can go to its website and buy $11 sweaters, $2 cellphone cases, and other items from a constantly updated range of stuff.

However, Shein’s detractors have long contended that the company’s tactics foster overconsumption and environmental waste, both of which the retailer claims it is attempting to address.

However, Italian regulators accuse the corporation of misleading customers with statements about the environmental sustainability of the apparel it sells. Environmental organisations have claimed that similar deceptive methods, known as greenwashing, occur throughout the corporate sector.

Italy’s anti-trust office, known in Italian as AGCM, claims that some of the environmental references on Shein’s Italian website are misleading or omit information. Images advertising Shein’s garments as sustainable are also made “through generic, vague, confused, and/or misleading environmental assertions,” according to the authority.

The watchdog specifically mentioned information from Shien’s “evoluShein” line, claiming that it may have misled consumers into believing that the clothing they purchased could be recycled.

AGCM also claimed that Shein’s website’s declared commitment to decarbonisation was in “apparent contradiction” with the increases in greenhouse gas emissions listed in Shein’s sustainability reports for 2022 and 2023.

The online shop stated that it would assist with the Italian probe.

Shein Faces Scrutiny In Italy Over Possible Greenwashing

“We would also like to take this opportunity to reaffirm our commitment to complying with the laws and regulations in the markets where we operate and to maintaining transparency with our customers,” Shein said in a news release.

Shein has also faced issues in other parts of Europe. Critics and advocacy groups, including Amnesty International UK, have protested the company’s potential listing on the London Stock Exchange due to labour and environmental issues.

SOURCE | AP

Fashion

Milan Fashion Week Closes With A Gala Promoting Sustainability

Published

2 weeks ago

2024-09-23

Kiara Grace

Milan. | AP News image

MILAN — Milan designers concluded six days of runway womenswear previews with a lavish award event at Milan’s renowned Teatro Alla Scala to recognize sustainable ideas.

The first incarnation of the awards was introduced in 2017 to recognise green innovation in an industry traditionally associated with excess, as well as improve brand communication about efforts being taken to reduce their carbon footprint.

This week also celebrated the second annual Black Carpet Awards, which recognize excellence among people of color living and working in Italy as a method of fostering equity.

Black Carpet Awards Return
British fashion designer Ib Kamara and Angolan supermodel Maria Borges presented awards at the second edition of the Black Carpet Awards, which recognize the contributions of people of color working in Italy across a variety of sectors.

Honourees included shot-putter Danielle Madam, actor Alberto Malachino, educator Cinzia Adanna Ebonine, who founded a platform to promote inclusive education, Justin Randolph Thompson, the founder of Black History Month Florence, and Alice Edun, the founder of Italy’s first curly haircare brand.

Despite the multinational audience, many of the prize recipients delivered their speeches in Italian, seeing it as a political decision to highlight their full integration and self-identification as Italians.

milan

Milan Fashion Week Closes With A Gala Promoting Sustainability

“It remains correct to bet on the competencies of young Italians of foreign origin, in a context like Italy that too often marginalises or seeks to make us invisible,” Adanna Ebonine remarked. “This award makes me seen in my entirety, not just as a Black person who works in a prevalently white context, but as professional who tries to make a difference in her own way.”

Anna Wintour went by to meet the honourees before the evening ceremony.

Afro Fashion Week founder Michelle Francine Ngonmo, who launched the rewards, expressed her hope that additional sponsors will come forward so that future editions can include prize money.

Fashion-forward Ferrari
Ferrari’s fashion division uses automotive advancements to create luxury garment collections aimed at brand enthusiasts.

Rocco Iannone, Ferrari Style’s creative director, presents supple leather looks inspired by racing vehicle interiors. This season’s innovations include treated leather for a worn-in, grease-monkey look and denim with fibres pulled in lines to produce tactile pinstripes. The preferred attachment remains the hard-case clutch fashioned like a sports vehicle.

“Performance for us is craftsmanship, and it is conveyed through fabrics,” Iannone explained.

Tokyo James promotes imperfection.
Tokyo James, a British-Nigerian designer, mocked the fashion industry’s pursuit of perfection with a collection featuring minor misalignments, such as faulty seams.

“We have to stop pursuing perfection all the time,” he stated. “It’s a fight against the way the industry operates. “We need to be more fluid.”

Tokyo James made his Milan debut a few seasons ago, during what appeared to be a Renaissance of Black designers on the Italian fashion scene. He is one of the few that remain.

“I hope for better days,” James admitted backstage.

Milan Fashion Week Closes With A Gala Promoting Sustainability

Francesca Liberatore provides sculptured looks.
Francesca Liberatore pays tribute to her father, artist Bruno Liberatore, with a collection featuring his pyramidal forms as the leitmotif.

Models wore stylised bell skirts with jutting pyramids over knitwear for a lively, playful style that evolved into a more serious and wearable tiny version with pink cotton panels. Liberatore created flower motifs that were stitched white-on-white “to highlight the significance of roots.”

“It was a personal story, with my father,” Liberatore explained.

SOURCE | AP